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Monthly Archives: August 2017

Pick Auto Repair Shop for SUV

It is very helpful to begin your hunt for a reliable auto repair shop before you take your new SUV home with you. This head start will provide insight on what to expect once your SUV requires some professional attention, or it comes time for its factory scheduled maintenance. There will be no surprises; you’ll know exactly who you can call and who you can trust. You won’t have to waste time worrying about finding an honest and dependable auto repair mechanic that is close to home and fits your budget, all within short notice and under duress.

Once you think you have found some good candidates for SUV service and repair, you can dig a little deeper and look for some clues that speak to the character and proficiency of the shop. For instance, look for professional licensing, associations, and similar credentials. Also inquire about the number of years they have been working on car professionally. Look for signs about surcharges, fees, billing, and more, and ask about their billing and fee policy. Inquire about free services, such as estimates or inspections. Look to see if the facility is clean and organized, and if whether or not the staff is neatly dressed and exhibiting positive attitudes.

Aside from your regular scheduled maintenance, there are several other things you can do for your SUV to keep it dependable for years to come. Keep up with regular tire inflation, light inspections, antifreeze refills, coolant refills, windshield wiper refills, windshield wiper replacements, and more. And be sure to drive smoothly and do not abuse the brakes! Good driving practices plus proper maintenance will ensure your vehicle performs safely and efficiently for a long time.

Change Flat Tire

Find a safe spot to pull over. Taking the nearest exit is safest if you’re on the freeway, even with a blown tire (just put on those hazard lights). If getting to an exit isn’t an option, pull as far onto the shoulder as possible and on a straight and flat stretch of road, not on a curve where cars may not be able to see you when coming around. Don’t park in the middle of a curve where approaching cars can’t see you. If you have a manual transmission, leave your car in gear. And don’t forget to set your parking brake!

Turn on your hazard lights. Get the lug wrench, jack, and spare tire from the trunk and bring them over to the tire that is flat.

Loosen the lug nuts with the wrench. “Loosen” is the operative word. Don’t remove the lug nuts yet; just loosen them by turning the wrench counter-clockwise (just remember “lefty loosy” “righty tighty”). If the lug nuts are extra tight, try placing the wrench on the nut and standing on the wrench arm to use your full weight on it. Hitting the wrench arm with a rock is also an option. Note: You may need to remove the hubcap (if your tire has one) to do all this.

Lift the vehicle off the ground with the jack. Consult your owner’s manual for the specific locations to place the jack as different models have different spots. Once the jack is securely in the correct spot, jack up the car until the tire is approximately 6 inches off the ground.

Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off the car. NOW, you can remove the lug nuts. Put them all in one spot so you’re not missing one when you need to put them back on. Then pull the tire straight toward yourself to remove it from the wheel base.

Place the spare on the car. Line up the lug nut posts with the holes in the spare, and push the spare all the way onto the wheel base until it can’t go any farther.

Put on the lug nuts. But don’t tighten them all the way.

Lower the car back to the ground. Bing the car back down to ground level using the jack and then pull the jack out from underneath the car.

Tighten the lug nuts. Now that the car is on the ground, you can now tighten the lug nuts, but don’t tighten one all the way then move onto the next one. Start with one lug nut, tighten it about 50%, move to the opposite nut and tighten that one about the same amount. Keep tightening opposite lug nuts gradually in turn until each lug nut is as tight as it can be.

Put your flat tire and tools back in your trunk. Be sure you don’t leave anything on the side of the road.


Gear Issues on Automatic Car

If you are driving fast on a highway and your car changes to the first gear, you could break the teeth because it cannot handle that speed. The first gear is always bigger in diameter because of the force required to do the initial movement.

The transmission can also experience oil leakage. This fluid looks red. It comes from the filler tube base that is located between the engine and transmission, the drain hole, the selector shaft, or the radiator. No oil leakage is good as it means that there is a hole somewhere allowing air to move into the car. Oil is also the source of lubrication inside the engine and keeps the mechanisms cool.

The filter could get clogged at any time. The filter inside the car keeps the oil clean keeping any dust or particles out of the engine. Oil supplies the car with lubrication so that there is no friction. Friction is what causes overheating and worn out parts. If you are experiencing delayed shifting and oil leaking it is likely that the filter has been clogged. This filter also keeps the dust away from the gearbox whilst it shifts. If you experience delayed shifting it could mean that there is something blocking the system from making smooth motions.

Shifting gears incorrectly can be easily felt. It often sounds like the engine is groaning if it has gone up one gear too many. This will lead to a slow pulling motion which will not allow the car to move faster until it regains its speed again.

Chrysler Ignition Repair

Chrysler motors are pretty awesome with their inventions and innovations, for example they were one of the first to use electronic fuel injection in their cars back in 1957 called “ElectroJector” for their Chrysler 300D, Dodge D-500 and more which was later replaced with a catalytic converter.

They were the first to penetrate the minivan market back in the 70s and the 80s and that’s what actually saved them from bankruptcy. Models like the Grand Voyager and their best ever made model the Grand Caravan generations were the best sellers generation after generation. There are six Chrysler Minivan generations. Which also gave birth to the Dodge Grand Caravan series from the early 2000’s and up until this year 2017. Dodge is always the star of the commercial world. I myself drive it, lots of power!

The ignition:
2008 Chrysler models and on have replaced its mechanical ignition to an electronic ignition key system mounted into the dash. Instead of the typical steering column systems. The new ignition got plenty of attention in 2014 when more complaints started to arrive about faulty ignitions then Chrysler decided to replace the ignitions and not repair them. 2016 and 2017 models don’t have any major report on its ignition yet. Although I did hear about some transmission issues and the new engine 3.6 engine issues lately but no major recalls.

The new ignition system works pretty well, your key is a specially designed remote which acts as a fob key which slides into the ignition slot. Basically like a toy, this remote clips into the ignition and easily switches the ignition on. The 2017 Chrysler ignitions are still the same and new remotes come with plenty of features like 7 button remotes with automatic sliding door control, trunk and remote start. Overall the improvements are great except the remotes tend to wear out quick.

Technicals of a Chrysler ignition:
All major Chrysler brands (Dodge, Jeep, RAM and more) have the same ignition system. Old Chrysler ignitions operate like a typical lock mechanism by sliding the key into the ignition you are compressing the pins to line up on the sheer line according to the key pattern. Then as you wish to turn the ignition, the “side bar” needs to be pressed as well. This sidebar is similar to many US ignitions including GM.